Tap is dripping, or will not turn off fully:
Possible debris on washer or seating. Remove valve, clean rubber washer and seating. If the leak continues, the valve may need replacing.
Taps discolouring or tarnishing:
To maintain the appearance of these fittings, ensure they are cleaned regularly using a clean soft damp cloth only. Abrasive cleaners or detergents must not be used as they may cause surface deterioration.
Taps are noisy in use:
Mains pressure is too high. A pressure-reducing valve may be required.
Tap heads are loose:
Remove cap and tighten retaining screw. The screw should be supplied with an anti-rotational washer or have a serrated underside.
The flow of water is poor:
If ceramic disc valve, make sure you have a minimum of 0.5 bar operating pressure (as recommended). If a standard screw down valve, make sure pipework has been flushed through thoroughly before connecting to your water supply to remove any debris that may be restricting the flow.
Spout appears loose:
Make sure grub screw at the back of spout is tightened. Alternatively, where the fixing mechanism is a nut, make sure this has been screwed down fully.
Leaking from bottom of spout:
‘O’ ring on spout has perished or has been cut. This may have been caused by pushing the spout into the main body before opening the grub screw fully at the back of the spout. Replace the ‘O’ ring. Alternatively, loosen the grub screw and ensure spout is pushed fully into the main body to form a double seal. Then simply retighten the grub screw.
Tap heads are spinning freely on top of valve:
Plastic bush on spline has worn. Replace with new plastic bush.
Water comes out of spout and handset at the same time:
Remove the diverter handle, unscrew the brass gland nut and replace the diverter assembly with a new spare. Then simply Re-assemble diverter handle. Alternatively, the diverter washer could be damaged. Lift diverter knob and use a thin adjustable spanner and locate it onto nut and unscrew diverter. Check washer on bottom and replace if damaged. Or, if bath shower mixer is with ceramic disc technology and if water pressure is below 0.5 bar (as recommended) and it will not hold the diverter knob in the open position, proceed as above and remove the diverter spring. Remember to then reassemble the diverter.
Back legs on bath mixer are marked or damaged:
Replace with new legs.
I want to wall mount my bath shower mixer, how do I do this?
You would need to order a pair of wall mounted couplings.
Decorative base flange on the tap body is catching on upstand on sanitaryware:
Remove decorative base flange and re-fit the product.
Wall spout is loose or fitted off centre:
Make sure spout is fitted to ‘T’’ connector using enough P.T.F.E. tape (or other suitable sealant) to secure in position. Make sure spout is secured correctly within the wall cavity to avoid movement.
Waste will not hold water
Check plug ‘O’ ring is not damaged. Or, check all thread on the bottom of the plug is set to correct height. There may be a possible fault with moulding on the waste hole in the basin bowl. Ensure enough sealant is used between bowl and waste (washers only are not enough to seal some wastes).
Pop up rod is not working:
Make sure rod connector is fitted correctly and height of the thread on the plug has been set correctly.
Shower handset is leaking, or damaged:
If leaking, check washer is still in place between handset and end of shower hose. Or if still leaking, or damaged, replace with new handset.
Showering temperature is not hot enough.
Ensure hot water supply is at least 60C. and ensure you have equal pressures. Check for airlocks in pipework and ensure there are no inverted U’s in any of the pipework runs.
Water goes cold during shower.
Insufficient hot water storage
When the shower is set at cold, the showering temperature is too hot.
Hot and cold supply connections have been made in reverse.
Shower temperature is too hot (pumped shower).
Turn down the flow of hot water from the pump using the in-line isolator valve.
Showering temperature is not hot enough.
Incoming pressure exceeds 5 bar - ensure you have fitted pressure reducing valve in the mains supply pipe. Ensure hot water supply is at least 60C.
Valve is very noisy when in use.
Incoming pressure exceeds 5 bar - ensure you have fitted a pressure reducing valve in the mains supply pipe immediately after stopcock to premises.
The water goes cold whilst showering.
Ensure the boiler is still firing. Adjust the boiler to the hottest output, not the best flow
Radiators - How much heat will I need?
All rooms are individual and therefore the heat output required from your selected radiator will vary. It is important you choose the correct radiator to ensure enough heat is generated to keep you comfortable. A sensible tip is to always choose a model with a higher heat output than you require, as this can always be controlled by turning them down.
What is the measurement for heat output on radiators?
All our radiators carry the heat output measured in either: o BTU’s (British Thermal Unit) or o Watts. Our BTU calculations use the British Standard of Delta t60c
When buying a radiator what heat output will I need for my room?
It is highly recommended that your installer calculates the BTU requirement for each applicable room, so you can get the maximum heat benefit from your chosen radiator. We strongly suggest this is done before purchasing your radiator.
What radiator designs offer the best heat output?
Simply put, the bigger surface area that a radiator has, the more heat output will be generated. Another general guide is that painted finishes offer a slightly better heat output than chrome finished items. To optimize the space you have available, we offer radiator designs that can be fitted horizontally or vertically. To get additional heat output from the same area, you can also choose options that include multiple rows of tubes, panels & columns.
Radiator colour options
From stock, we offer the most current fashionable colour options across a wide range of products, all of which can be seen in our current brochures. Please note that due to the printing process, the actual colours on the radiators may vary slightly from those shown in our brochures.
All our dimensional details are published in our current brochures. However, due to manufacturing tolerances, we strongly suggest that your final pipework position is not completed until you actually receive delivery of your radiator.
Can I install an Electric-only radiator?
Where your installation location does not have immediate access to an existing water supply, we can offer purpose made electric-only products for a quick and easy solution to your heating needs. These electric only products are supplied pre-filled with an electrical inhibitor solution and fitted with a compatible heating element.
What are Dual Fuel radiators?
Some of our radiators can also work as dual fuel applications, which means when your main heating system might be turned off in the summer months, you can still operate your radiators electrically if required. Please see our current brochures for suitable models.
What are my Radiator valve options?
Depending on your choice of radiator, we have several styles to choose from - details of which can be found in our current brochures.
Can I fit my own radiator?
Qualified persons should make all electrical and plumbing connections. When fitting radiators with heating elements, the radiator must always be mounted with the element at the bottom with the radiator in the upright position. Failure to do so may result in a fire hazard.
Which way around do the Fixed and Quick Release wheels go?
The Fixed wheels are fitted to the top of the door and the Quick Release wheels are fitted to the bottom.